While it may be sacrilegious to some, since I see you referencing boost / dsp? you could use it to ease the roll off the cliff - ie try (if available) 1st order HP at 20Hz (or so) which would start ~40Hz, and move northward to trim peak??? Looks like you’ll have plenty of output to work with. Of course you probably can target the PR’s better than I….
@ugly_woofer said:
The other option would be to double up the baffles and gain another 1-1/2.......if it would be enough.
This would be my choice if 1.5" would make it happen. Easy enough to make some spacer rings with the circle jig and clamp em down with some construction adhesive. Though beauty is in the eye of the beer holder. And I could see how some might not like it.
@kenrhodes said:
Probably had more cubic inch in the engine than the cab.
She was squirrely, not gonna lie. Had a built Powerglide transmission - no room for TH350 without cutting up the tunnel. Didn't need the low first gear anyways. My little brother drove that truck for a few years.
@Tom_S said:
This reminds me of most of my projects. I try to follow the Measure Twice - Cut Once rule....but I still find a way to screw something up!
I usually don't mess things up too bad, but this project is kicking my ass up one side and down the other.
Comments
One door closes, another opens . . . (NOT an idiot, either].
Another bonus is I just shaved 12 pounds off. Make moving them around easier, that's for sure.
I can always tell people this was my intended plan - but I still feel quite the idiot.
The other option would be to double up the baffles and gain another 1-1/2.......if it would be enough.
Hmmm ..
Not Sunfire, but Starblaze? Good on the PR find. If that had not been there, I might've gone how Nick thought, or inverted one woofer.
InDIYana Event Website
While it may be sacrilegious to some, since I see you referencing boost / dsp? you could use it to ease the roll off the cliff - ie try (if available) 1st order HP at 20Hz (or so) which would start ~40Hz, and move northward to trim peak??? Looks like you’ll have plenty of output to work with. Of course you probably can target the PR’s better than I….
I only have the on/off option for boost.
This would be my choice if 1.5" would make it happen. Easy enough to make some spacer rings with the circle jig and clamp em down with some construction adhesive. Though beauty is in the eye of the beer holder. And I could see how some might not like it.
I think I actually come out ahead with the PR approach. Happy fuckup.
Serendipity.
OK, so found the heavy discs in one of the passive boxes so was able to get to 300g of added masses, this flattened out the peak considerably:
F3 is right around 25Hz, peak SPL is still over 100db. All in all, a happy little accident.
Yay, my Duratex arrived a day early - will start final coating things this evening and tomorrow morning.
Assembly tomorrow.
Sprayed or roller?
They look great!
Roller. Thanks!
So the driver hits the amp, of course. Back to drawing board. I think I'll just build a standoff for the amp, simplest.
Another baffle might pop if it was another color or wood. That might even help brace the cabinet a bit more in the process.
Making it thicker would set the speaker magnet further away from the amp . . .
This project reminds me of the time we put a 327 in my little brother's Dodge D50 pickup. Cut here, fabricate there.
Probably had more cubic inch in the engine than the cab.
She was squirrely, not gonna lie. Had a built Powerglide transmission - no room for TH350 without cutting up the tunnel. Didn't need the low first gear anyways. My little brother drove that truck for a few years.
Amp sub-enclosure.
This reminds me of most of my projects. I try to follow the Measure Twice - Cut Once rule....but I still find a way to screw something up!
I usually don't mess things up too bad, but this project is kicking my ass up one side and down the other.