I tried the titebond II and iron method on the 1.5way with 1.25" roundovers. It would be pretty simple to do on flat panels. I used the iron cranked to medium-high directly on the veneer with nothing in between. I found the glue will probably burn before the wood discolors. Just start from the middle and keep the iron moving. Oah and watch the veneer pieces while they are sitting with the glue drying, they curled on me pretty badly while I wasn't looking and got glue on the front side. Fortunately I caught it soon enough I could wipe it off with water and elbow grease.
Has anyone here tried phenolic backed veneer? It is much thinner than it used to be but still has advantages. It is basically paper backed veneer where the paper has been treated with phenolic resin.
PB means Phenolic backed. some species are available in beige, some brown and some both, I dont think there is a huge difference in color however. They just attempt to eliminate the black line like standard countertop laminate
Like Jim above I'd cast a vote for water-based CC. I've used Titan DX but like the Wilsonart better. Peel-and-stick on a surface sprayed with 3M spray adhesive seems pretty indestructible, but there you've got the stink again, just not "creeping-in-from-the-garage" stink. For some projects I'm a little squeamish about using spray glue though.
Comments
I tried the titebond II and iron method on the 1.5way with 1.25" roundovers. It would be pretty simple to do on flat panels. I used the iron cranked to medium-high directly on the veneer with nothing in between. I found the glue will probably burn before the wood discolors. Just start from the middle and keep the iron moving. Oah and watch the veneer pieces while they are sitting with the glue drying, they curled on me pretty badly while I wasn't looking and got glue on the front side. Fortunately I caught it soon enough I could wipe it off with water and elbow grease.
Has anyone here tried phenolic backed veneer? It is much thinner than it used to be but still has advantages. It is basically paper backed veneer where the paper has been treated with phenolic resin.
I think Brad at JF component should sell it
Never heard of it
https://www.jfcomponents.com/
That sounds promising. Maybe they can tint it to match the wood species too.
https://www.richelieu.com/us/en/architect-designer/category/decorative-panels/tenderized-wood-veneers-cedan/tenderized-veneers-cedan-real-wood/white-oak-veneer/1014513
PB means Phenolic backed. some species are available in beige, some brown and some both, I dont think there is a huge difference in color however. They just attempt to eliminate the black line like standard countertop laminate
https://www.richelieu.com/us/en/architect-designer/category/decorative-panels/tenderized-wood-veneers-cedan/tenderized-veneers-cedan-real-wood/1229969
this is where I got my maple https://blowoutveneer.com/index.php/product-category/poly/
I've been paying too much. Except I get free shipping when I put it in with a big order.
Do you get the 10 mil or 20 mil paper backed?
The Poly backed and the 20 mil. My dull router bits caused some chip out I'm going to have to deal with.
Like Jim above I'd cast a vote for water-based CC. I've used Titan DX but like the Wilsonart better. Peel-and-stick on a surface sprayed with 3M spray adhesive seems pretty indestructible, but there you've got the stink again, just not "creeping-in-from-the-garage" stink. For some projects I'm a little squeamish about using spray glue though.
Yup, Wilsonart H2O. I have it shipped to store at Home Depot.