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New project, "The Quagmires"

PWRRYDPWRRYD
in DIY


Since Brad was so distraught over my tossing out the last project, I braved the cold weather today and cut some wood to start a suitable replacement project:


More to follow after my fingers, nose, and ears warm back up.

Nicholas_23jr@macjohnny5jzGeoffMillarhifisidejhollanderrjj45Steve_LeeScottS
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Comments

  • tajanestajanes
    edited February 1

    mdf + solid wood baffles - should be interesting

  • PWRRYDPWRRYD

    Won't be an issue. The solid wood baffles will be bolted on (i.e. removable). So no splitting boxes.

    tajanes
  • PWRRYDPWRRYD

    So out in the cold and in my haste I messed up and cut the top, bottom, and side to side braces 8" wide when they should have been 8.5" wide. I hate when I make silly mistakes. Luckily I had enough extra MDF on hand and it's 10° warmer here today. I just finished cutting the correct sized pieces. Time to sit down and relax with the family.

    kenrhodesSteve_LeeEggguyhifiside
  • hifisidehifiside

    Giggity giggity

    PWRRYD6thplanetKornbread

    https://www.jfcomponents.com/

  • tommytunes50tommytunes50
    edited February 3

    Edit because a pretty stupid gif

  • kenrhodeskenrhodes

    @PWRRYD said:
    So out in the cold and in my haste I messed up and cut the top, bottom, and side to side braces 8" wide when they should have been 8.5" wide.

    Not surprised it was a 1/2 inch short, it is cold outside...

    Steve_Lee6thplanetugly_wooferImpious
  • Tom_STom_S

    The good thing about MDF is the mistakes & scraps can come in handy in future speaker projects or jigs.

    Steve_Lee
  • jhollanderjhollander

    I have edge glued MDF back together to make bigger panels

    kenrhodesSteve_Lee6thplanetImpious
     John H, btw forum has decided I don't get emails
  • kenrhodeskenrhodes

    Edge glued MDF works surprisingly well.

    Steve_Lee
  • 6thplanet6thplanet

    My indiyana project is done like that, great way to use up scraps.

    Billet
  • PWRRYDPWRRYD

    Just realized I never mentioned what drivers I will be using on this project

    CSS LDW7
    Morel ST1048
    SB 8" PR

    I think they should meld well together.

    tajaneshifisideSteve_Leeugly_woofer
  • EggguyEggguy

    I am still undecided on my crossover for my chubby faced eggs. They use that same tweeter. Currently I am listening to them with 2nd ord. slopes at 2K but I am going to try a new one at 2.4K with better phase tracking. I am also going to try a large wedge that will go between the speaker and stand and give me a sloped baffle. If you would share your crossover development process and thoughts it would be helpful to me. Thanks, Old New Guy. Thats me, not you.

  • PWRRYDPWRRYD

    I had considered building these with a sloped baffle to allow LR2 acoustic slopes. I may try your wedge idea because I have really liked my projects that pulled off LR2.

  • PWRRYDPWRRYD

    @kenrhodes said:
    Edge glued MDF works surprisingly well.

    I've never tried that. I'll keep that in mind in the future.

  • PWRRYDPWRRYD

    Since this project is using above average drivers (at least compared to my normal standards) I'm going to stretch my budget and try some nicer crossover components. For sure only air core inductors throughout. Probably 14, 15, or 16 gauge air cores for the woofers' low pass. Maybe foil inductors for the tweeters' filters. Undecided on any brand or series of caps at this point. Thinking a step or two up from Audyn Q4's. Not sure what that would be. Certainly not caps that cost more than the drivers do.

    KornbreadEggguy
  • ugly_wooferugly_woofer

    Jantzen silver maybe?

  • WolfWolf
    edited February 5

    Those ASC 387X or 386X caps you use in tube amps, Craig, are great xover caps as well, and not that expensive.
    Dan and Kerry use the Jantzen Z-Superiors in their products with upgrades, but thought the Audyn Plus were a close second. If you are looking for the 'spatial bloom' that gives the holographic effect a lot favor with an expansive soundstage; avoid ClarityCap products, and use one of these:

    • Audyn Plus, marginal spatial increase.
    • ASC 387X/386X, more space than Plus, better details.
    • Jantzen Superior-Z, more space same detail quality.
    • Jantzen Silver-Z, even a bit more space than Superior, but same details.
    • AuriCap, on par with the Jantzens above.
    • SoniCap I, by some sound a bit bright in detail, more space than CC, but not as much spatially as the above choices.
    • MultiCap PPMFX, same kind of detail quality as SoniCap I, but a little more reserved in character, decent spatially, better than SoniCaps in my opinion.

    If I would suggest a tweeter cap from the above list, I'd suggest the SoniCaps or MultiCaps for the Morel tweeters as I've heard the SoniCap/Morel combo before and thought it was well aligned.
    I have not found using more than a Solen FC across a woofer to be warranted in most cases. Solen Silvers also work well here.
    The Jantzen Litz-wax coils at PE are very cost effective choice for woofers, and the Cross-Coil foils for the tweeter are also good value. No need to really go over 16AWG in terms of DCR in most cases, IMO.

    InDIYana Event Website

  • tajanestajanes
    edited February 5

    @ugly_woofer said:
    Jantzen silver maybe?

    I'd second considering Jantzen silvers, and ClarityCap PUR. I've recently used both.

    A bit of a sales piece, but some descriptive info on the PURs:
    https://www.hificollective.co.uk/components/claritycap_pur.html
    (and sold through Madisound)

  • PWRRYDPWRRYD

    It was quite cold outside today after work, but I bundled up and got the enclosures flush trimmed. The weather forecast for Northern IL is looking pretty bad for the next 2 or 3 weeks, maybe a month or more :(.

    jr@macSteve_Leeugly_woofertajanes
  • PWRRYDPWRRYD

    Since the weather is going to be so bad for the near future I've decided to take a big chance and go ahead and veneer these enclosures. Using Titebond II and a clothes iron I can veneer these in my nice and warm basement with no fumes.

    Tom_Sjr@mac
  • jr@macjr@mac

    -20 in the morning here.

    PWRRYD
    I have a signature.
  • tajanestajanes

    @jr@mac said:
    -20 in the morning here.

    3 (or 4) dog night.

  • Nicholas_23Nicholas_23

    Going to need the neighbors dog too and make it a five dog night here.

  • jr@macjr@mac

    I got no dogs, have to settle for a couple beers and an extra blanket.

    tajanes
    I have a signature.
  • DrewsBrewsDrewsBrews

    "big chance"?

  • Tom_STom_S

    Craig, I'm sure you'll do fine on the veneering. For me, it's much easier than painting.

  • PWRRYDPWRRYD

    All my veneering has been done with contact cement. But I can't use that stuff in the winter. Even out in the garage the stink makes its way into the house.

  • jholtzjholtz
    edited February 13

    Craig, I use water based contact cement that contractors use for counter tops etc. No smell and sticks very well. I've used iron on with Titebond and found the water based to be easier and work better for me. I use it in the basement year around right next to my listening/home theater room with no smell.

    BTW, I've used several different brands (cheap ones are crappy) and found I like Wilsonart the best. Not cheap but it works great!

    HTH

    Jim

    Colonel7Turn2
  • a4eaudioa4eaudio

    I bought water based cement recently, but haven't used it yet. ACE and Menards had it in stock.

  • PWRRYDPWRRYD

    Thanks Jim and David. I'll look into the water based contact cement.

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