I wouldn't buy one again. Yes they work, but you only need it if you didn't store your filament correctly. If you do get a roll of filament "wet" put it back in the bag with the dryer bags for a week or two. You can also use your bed heater to dry your filament.
I save all the dryer bags that come with filament and add a few when I put filament back in the bag. Those little dryer bags can also be baked to get them dryer.
Point being save your money.
It works well and I have had new filament that is very wet right out of the box (50% RH) . Humidity isn't much of a problem in Iowa in the winter because the furnace and the weather dry the house out. Summer is a different story.
The only problem I've had with the dryer is when I used it to dry some TPU and forgot to set the temp back down for PLA. It got hot enough to make the PLA stick to itself on the spool which caused the extruder gear to strip the filament and quit printing.
I have a friend who uses a counter top toaster oven. They can be picked up cheap at places like Goodwill.
I saw the device on the left with the threaded brass insert, and assumed that you had duplicated the threaded insert in the 3 d print. I now see that is not the case, the print appears to have a straight hole.
But Chahly - Stahkist don't want speakers that look good, Stahkist wants speakers that sound good!
@rjj45 said:
I saw the device on the left with the threaded brass insert, ...
Look up "Ruthex" heat set inserts on Amazon. I have bought some, as well as solder tips and accessories but haven't actually used any. I also saw a YouTube video where they were testing several different brands of heat set inserts and they also included just screwing directly into PLA. The direct screw into PLA actually held a LOT of weight, so for little waveguides and such, I don't even need the fancy inserts.
@rjj45 said:
I saw the device on the left with the threaded brass insert, and assumed that you had duplicated the threaded insert in the 3 d print. I now see that is not the case, the print appears to have a straight hole.
Gotcha! I've never tried threads in a 3D print. I designed pockets for the 1/4-20 nuts on the back side of this piece. We have a few people on staff who regularly over-tighten and break things, so I wanted to make it as durable as possible.
I recently printed a spool winder for filament spools that had threads. I got the files from the internet so I don't know if they did anything special but the threads and nut work fine.
I had my first & second print failure. The first on Sunday was just a raft that didn't stick well, so I stopped the print and started it again. It printed just fine. The second fail was overnight. It got about 75% complete and then nothing. The screen said complete, but obviously it wasn't putting down any material. Not sure yet if it's jammed extruder gears or if the hot end is clogged up.
-- It was a clog. Heated it up 240 and that cleared it.
My computer case has plastic clips in each corner on the front that hold the front panel on. Over time they've gotten brittle and just break when you pull the front off to clean the filters. Making replacements are just what 3D printers are for.
The original latch is on the right. I didn't make an exact copy because I'm not good enough with CAD to do all the fancy curves. My simplified version works just fine.
Ron-great job!
When I have to replicate parts like this I use a flat bed scanner to get a PDF scan of the profile I need. Once I have a good scan I use Convertio to convert the PDF into an SVG. SVG should easily port into any CAD software.
I have used a scanner years ago, there was a large learning curve, and the resolution was not what I needed. I imagine they are much better now than they were 5 years ago.
A 3D printer would be perfect for making the small wedges that I need for my Micro Grand Utopia speaker project. I need a total of 8 small wedges. Currently, I am attempting to make them out of hard maple stock that I had left over from another project. I made a custom 4 degree beveling fixture and am attempting to grind them to shape with my 6x48" belt sander. If this attempt fails, would one of you mind 3D printing them for me? I can make a drawing with precise dimensions in sketchup or photoshop.
Comments
Anyone using filament dryer boxes?
I wouldn't buy one again. Yes they work, but you only need it if you didn't store your filament correctly. If you do get a roll of filament "wet" put it back in the bag with the dryer bags for a week or two. You can also use your bed heater to dry your filament.
I save all the dryer bags that come with filament and add a few when I put filament back in the bag. Those little dryer bags can also be baked to get them dryer.
Point being save your money.
I use the large freezer zip-loc bags and got a 50 pack of desiccant packs from Amazon.
Edit: Just to be clear, I only use 1 or 2 of the packs at a time, not 50
I have this one from Sunlu.
https://amazon.com/Official-Filament-Upgraded-Dehydrator-Accessories/dp/B0BX6FR311
It works well and I have had new filament that is very wet right out of the box (50% RH) . Humidity isn't much of a problem in Iowa in the winter because the furnace and the weather dry the house out. Summer is a different story.
The only problem I've had with the dryer is when I used it to dry some TPU and forgot to set the temp back down for PLA. It got hot enough to make the PLA stick to itself on the spool which caused the extruder gear to strip the filament and quit printing.
I have a friend who uses a counter top toaster oven. They can be picked up cheap at places like Goodwill.
I saw the device on the left with the threaded brass insert, and assumed that you had duplicated the threaded insert in the 3 d print. I now see that is not the case, the print appears to have a straight hole.
Look up "Ruthex" heat set inserts on Amazon. I have bought some, as well as solder tips and accessories but haven't actually used any. I also saw a YouTube video where they were testing several different brands of heat set inserts and they also included just screwing directly into PLA. The direct screw into PLA actually held a LOT of weight, so for little waveguides and such, I don't even need the fancy inserts.
Gotcha! I've never tried threads in a 3D print. I designed pockets for the 1/4-20 nuts on the back side of this piece. We have a few people on staff who regularly over-tighten and break things, so I wanted to make it as durable as possible.
I recently printed a spool winder for filament spools that had threads. I got the files from the internet so I don't know if they did anything special but the threads and nut work fine.
I had my first & second print failure. The first on Sunday was just a raft that didn't stick well, so I stopped the print and started it again. It printed just fine. The second fail was overnight. It got about 75% complete and then nothing. The screen said complete, but obviously it wasn't putting down any material. Not sure yet if it's jammed extruder gears or if the hot end is clogged up.
-- It was a clog. Heated it up 240 and that cleared it.
My computer case has plastic clips in each corner on the front that hold the front panel on. Over time they've gotten brittle and just break when you pull the front off to clean the filters. Making replacements are just what 3D printers are for.
The original latch is on the right. I didn't make an exact copy because I'm not good enough with CAD to do all the fancy curves. My simplified version works just fine.
This is the new latch installed.
This is the post that mates to the latch.
All fixed.
Great job, Ron (check your 1st pic and orientation description again - L vs R).
I actually had it right in my first draft and changed it. It's late.
No worries, mate - just reducing confusion - great work - I envy you kids . . .
Ron-great job!
When I have to replicate parts like this I use a flat bed scanner to get a PDF scan of the profile I need. Once I have a good scan I use Convertio to convert the PDF into an SVG. SVG should easily port into any CAD software.
https://convertio.co/
Did anyone try any 3d scanner?
I have used a scanner years ago, there was a large learning curve, and the resolution was not what I needed. I imagine they are much better now than they were 5 years ago.
A 3D printer would be perfect for making the small wedges that I need for my Micro Grand Utopia speaker project. I need a total of 8 small wedges. Currently, I am attempting to make them out of hard maple stock that I had left over from another project. I made a custom 4 degree beveling fixture and am attempting to grind them to shape with my 6x48" belt sander. If this attempt fails, would one of you mind 3D printing them for me? I can make a drawing with precise dimensions in sketchup or photoshop.
Nice fix, Ron!
Bill, just sketch it on paper with dimensions I will get it drawn in fusion360.
Great! Will do.
I would volunteer, but my skills and print settings is a bit sketchy... But getting there...!
Let me know if I can help.