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Here is something different
I traded some CNC work for these book matched walnut slabs 1 3/16 thick But I'm not sure that I want to do all this work with these drivers. I have heard mixed reviews on the aluminum dome mid especially. Maybe I could build it and then give it to one of you crossover specialists for a year or two. The drivers will be rear mounted but mid and tweet will have spacer rings behind them so that their flanges will only be 3/16 or so back from the front face of the solid wood baffle. The slabs are 11 to 12 wide at their narrowest point and 7 feet long but I plan to cut them to about 4 feet. Come on with Ideas. 
Comments
Do it.
My first thought, sorry not as a speaker, but those would make (cutting one side, keeping the facing edge raw) for an interesting floating wall shelf (or two).
Of concern, Eggman, is that the AMT in the image maybe is more of a high midrange and does not play all the way up. JohnH used it with a supertweeter.
InDIYana Event Website
Don't listen to the whining over the metal mid. I built an RS28A-RS52-HiVi F8 3-way years ago and it is still in rotation with no plans for teardown.
I have been working on my speaker designs that I have placed on the back burners. This particular build I have replaced the tweeter with the GRS small planar which I have on the shelf. I intend to crosscut off the top portion of my live edge slab baffle, then rip down the middle and rip away defects near the center. I then plan to edge glue a tapered board of equal thickness in the center to form a cone shaped baffle, mask and black paint the center, then clear over the whole thing. I intend to rear mount all of the drivers. 1.125 baffle with CNC cut driver holes, remove and round over the holes with a thumbnail bit, flip over facedown in the exact location and CNC out the driver rebates .625 deep. I cannot fasten the drivers with screws because there is only 1/4 inch of wood left, so I will make retainer rings out of 3/8 MDF. None of the drivers will have fasteners in their flanges. They will be sandwiched into the baffle. The baffle will be blind screwed from behind. The back will then be screwed into place. My question is this. Since this is the perfect opportunity to incorporate some vibration isolation, should I only isolate the woofer frames from the baffle using AB-4 foam rubber which compresses nicely to about 2mm? The AB-4 by sonic barrier is more rubbery than regular weather stripping and wont compress down to almost nothing. I could also isolate the entire baffle from the box but that would require a lot of AB-4 and the fasteners might ought to be rubber washered as well. Seems nit picky, I know, but isn't that what we do?
Something like this
I'd definitely do some kinda gasket between the driver and baffle, that stuff you described sounds right.
As for baffle to box, I'd probably just glue it.
Maybe gasket between the mounting ring and driver, too.
Reminder to self, fix gasket on garage door.
We had a problem with our garage door periodically faulting at about 3" above the floor and going back up. Took me awhile to troubleshoot that it was the gasket whipping in the wind lol. Couple Tek screws and all good.
In SB 4/84, "A high Powered Satellite Speaker," Joe D'Appolito mounted the two 5.25" midrange drivers with rubber grommets placed between the frame and cabinet. He did this after doing accelerometer type testing, which showed that he had some very nasty cabinet resonances in the 200 to 500Hz range, being transmitted from drivers to the cabinet through the four mounting screws. So, I would do the woofers and as well as the mids. I have been thinking of ordering some sorbothane bushings and washers to experiment with this idea.
Something like this
As long as all the inner or outer speaker flange mounting surfaces are completely isolated from the wooden baffle surface, you should be OK. The driver needs to completely "float," under tension, in a bath of rubber material. It looks like that is what you have going here, but not sure.
No idea how much truth there is to this, but what I have read (typically on forums with low signal to noise ratios):
For vibration dampening you need viscoelastic material. Sorbothane is the most readily available. I think Butyl rubber is viscoelastic but can't find a source that confirms this.
Using a vibration reducing gasket on the midrange is beneficial. But the woofer is best attached firmly to a well braced cabinet. (I like the idea of building state-of-the-art cabinets, but without objective measurements, I don't place much confidence in these claims, so I just build normal cabinets.)