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SB12PFCR25-04

This is great looking midwoofer. It looks better than my SB16PFC, maybe because I like the pole piece on the SB12PFC.. it has the same built like my SB15NRX2.![] I will have to use my SB21RDC tweeter then instead of my Peerless DX20.(https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/lw/t1otc8ag0flo.jpg "")


hifiside6thplanetrjj454thtry
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Comments

  • Nice! They also have a coax version, the SB12PFCR25-4-COAX. It's a bit more than double the price ($64 vs $30) though.

    VCORPUZ23
  • I'm going to name the speakers, Yaris. Meaning elegance and beauty. 11" H x 6" W x 9.75"D. 5.6 liters tuned to 58Hz. 1.5" ID x 6" L.

  • edited May 2023

    That's a pretty nice tweeter for that mid. I found it very difficult to work with, I did a TM and a TMM earlier this year using it with the Beast Mode tweeter. They turned out pretty good, just had to cross kind of low as the woofer advertised response is quite wrong.

    VCORPUZ23
    I have a signature.
  • I originally used the SB21RDC with my SB15NRX2 and crossed at 2.1khz 3rd order electrical. It looks like I might do the same with this SB12PFC-04. I plan to use the Peerless DX20 originally but I believe i will need a robust tweeter for this midwoofer.

  • @VCORPUZ23 said:
    I'm going to name the speakers, Yaris. Meaning elegance and beauty. 11" H x 6" W x 9.75"D. 5.6 liters tuned to 58Hz. 1.5" ID x 6" L.

    VCORPUZ23
  • Yaris = crappy Toyota. Lol

    VCORPUZ236thplanet
  • Lol. I can't think of any names.

  • @VCORPUZ23 said:
    Lol. I can't think of any names.

    I’m no good at them myself.

    VCORPUZ23
  • It looks like I found a tweeter that will go with this midwoofer. The Seas 27TDC. No ferrofluid on this tweeter.

    6thplanet
  • Add one of these per cab and turn that Yaris into a Supra.😀

    hifisidekenrhodesVCORPUZ23jhollandersquamishdrocNicholas_23S7910
  • I'm planning to build a 3 way. I still have my SB15NRX2C30 midwoofer will go well with this woofer.

  • It's beautiful weather in Chicago! I went to Menards and bought one sheet 2' x 4' 3/4" MDF. I cut all the parts I needed to build "Yaris".. and of course, my ever best budget table saw in the world. My skil TS! Life is 👍

    hifisideSteve_Leesquamishdroc4thtry
  • great- keep us posted.

    btw- luv that jeep

    VCORPUZ23
  • Where abouts in Chicago land? I'm up the road just a bit (I-90) in Rockford.

    VCORPUZ23
  • Melrose Park. West suburbs of Chicago

  • edited May 2023

    Ugh I need a better table saw bad. I've got a Firestorm FS210LS. The table extensions are very useful but otherwise the thing is junk. No capacity for a riving knife so I end up getting a slight bend on the blade in short order causing the blade to vibrate/wobble. And no matter how much I try to adjust it I can't seem to get a perfect 90 degree cut even with a brand new blade. The table tracks are a non-standard size so can't use off-the-shelf parts to make a sled. The table really isn't flat either. I need it to be more portable too since I have to lug it up the stairs out of the basement each time I use it.

  • Get a saw with the best fence that you can. I have found it to be the most important part of the saw. I don't have a riving knife, but never experience blade warp since switching to a Biesemeyer type fence.

  • I have a Porter Cable. Out of the box it needed adjusting to the fence as well as the 90 for the blade. Cuts like a boss, now but what a royal pain in the ass to get it there. I periodically hit with 400 grit and give it a wax job, that helps things out as well. I should build a sled for it someday, though.

    I have a signature.
  • You might want to consider a track saw. Very portable and can be pretty accurate.

  • The Skil saw I have is really good. Not perfect but good. Love the rack n pinion fence plus built in stand. I bought mine at Menards last year for $269 after mail in rebate. Currently it's selling for "299 at moment. I did minor alignment on it now it's perfect.

  • I should have brought this up in it's own thread. oops. I think I will...

    jr@mac
  • Update on my "Yaris". Nothing special, butt joints, glue. Clamps and I made sure it's square 90 degrees.

    hifiside
  • @DrewsBrews said:
    The table tracks are a non-standard size so can't use off-the-shelf parts to make a sled.

    Microjig makes an adjustable miter bar for non standard slots. Before I got one I made my own miter bar out of oak which worked pretty well. When I made a new sled I used the Microjig miter bar.

    https://microjig.com/products/miter-bar

    Ron

    Steve_Lee
  • It's got mixed reviews though.

  • @VCORPUZ23 said:
    It's got mixed reviews though.

    Well, it is a Morel. Mixed reviews are to be expected.

    VCORPUZ23
    I have a signature.
  • You could also look at the Dayton ND28F. Very similar specs and form factor, cheaper and in stock.

    https://parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-ND28F-6-1-1-8-Soft-Dome-Neodymium-Tweeter-275-040?quantity=1

    VCORPUZ23
  • Boxes are 80 percent done. Just need to route the speaker cutouts on the baffle. Im still unsettled on the tweeter part of this project. I'd like to cross low at around 1.8 khz to 2.2khz. My mind tells me the Peerless DX20 should work but my heart tells me no..lol the joy of diy!!

    6thplanethifisideSteve_Lee4thtry
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