Lot's of strangeness in business practices that PE would/could screw up a flagship product like the RS28. Probably they were prohibited from using specific features by Usher and have not found a good workaround. The old RS28 looks just it always has - a total mutha value for <$100
But Chahly - Stahkist don't want speakers that look good, Stahkist wants speakers that sound good!
Apparently this mix up was from the manufacturer changing specs without telling PE of the change. Even so, I bested the stock Z curve, and dramatically reduced the HD from how they came to me. I have not seen the HD curve of one that was supposedly good from the manufacturer. Yes- the old venerable RS28 is still a leader in good specifications.
Nice work Ben! I'll keep this in mind for the future... I can see a pair of one-off rear home theater surrounds getting these tweeters from the goodie bag, so making them as good as can be would be advantageous. Did you happen to snap any pictures? I've never torn into the rear of a tweeter like this before, so knowing (and seeing) what to expect ahead of time would be a big benefit.
I did not, but what I did I thought would be self explanatory. The #1 unit did not have a strung piece of adheasive across the pole, so that might not be a common issue. Basically; pop off the cap, pull out the foam plug and replace it with a 1" cotton ball flush with the backplate, then recap and have ultratouch in the cup instead of the bonded felt that came with it. Just fill the cup to just beyond the rim, and glue it back on. The batting I used in between isn't really necessary, but I did it to cover the pole.
About 3-4 layers of a thin white felt, made stiff by the gluing in of the layers. It's 3/16-1/4" thick or less. The cup itself is pretty thin, and not all that strong.
Hey Ben, just wanted to let you know I just did your mod to one of my grab bag rst28fs with the same result as far as correcting the z to factory spec. The only thing I did different was used a layer of foam rebond carpet padding with a layer of fiberglass insulation in front of it in the jar lid instead of ultratouch, only because it’s what I had. Thanks again for your research into fixing these.
I just thought there was some way to improve them that most who received them would also like to know about. I managed to do it without much effort or time, and the improvement was pretty impressive. You are very welcome!
Don't have any ultratouch that will fit into the cup so left the stock felt padding in place, replaced the foam plug with the obligatory 1" cotton ball, and sealed the cup back to the tweeter with a couple rounds of black tape.
Not quite there yet.
Use the entire 1" cotton ball? It fits pretty tight.
Used the dremel with one of those cutting wheels that shatters if you look at it wrong and cut at the junction of the cup/magnet just cutting through the plastic cup. The cutting wheel lets you know when its through the plastic cup. The cup then came off with just a little prying and it's easily reusable.
If it's bigger than 1" squished, it's too much. It really was about 1" diameter when compacted, and yes it fit tightly. Football and twist as you insert it.
I know this is a really old thread but I thought I'd revive it. I've had this week off and had lots of time in the morning to work on stuff while everyone is still sleeping. I was able to successfully remove the back cups without destroying them. I did Ben's mods and got them back together and remounted to the Visaton waveguides. Their impedance curves are now identical and more closely match PE's. I'll take some FR and distortion measurements when I get some boxes built.
I ended up donating my set unmodified. Friend was building an LCD based pin ball machine. I had enough junk to supply the sound system. I used those tweets and some Audax mids for the satellites. I used an MCM 8" subwoofer for bass duties in ported box tuned to 38hz.
I was going to do the crossover and I happened to see a set of Boston Acoustic car audio xovers laying on the shelf, thought...what the heck and slapped them in there. Much to my surprise that's the FR curve. Bonus! A bit hot in the middle, but just fine for pinball duty. A tent sale 2.1 plate amp finished it off.
Basic boxes are built. Need to machine the driver rebates and cutouts on the baffles, attach, flush trim, then roundover with 3/4" bit. More to follow...
Comments
Yes- the old venerable RS28 is still a leader in good specifications.
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The cup itself is pretty thin, and not all that strong.
InDIYana Event Website
InDIYana Event Website
InDIYana Event Website
I know this is a really old thread but I thought I'd revive it. I've had this week off and had lots of time in the morning to work on stuff while everyone is still sleeping. I was able to successfully remove the back cups without destroying them. I did Ben's mods and got them back together and remounted to the Visaton waveguides. Their impedance curves are now identical and more closely match PE's. I'll take some FR and distortion measurements when I get some boxes built.
What you don't own a camera?
Glad to hear it, Craig! I still have to use my pair...
InDIYana Event Website
I ended up donating my set unmodified. Friend was building an LCD based pin ball machine. I had enough junk to supply the sound system. I used those tweets and some Audax mids for the satellites. I used an MCM 8" subwoofer for bass duties in ported box tuned to 38hz.
I was going to do the crossover and I happened to see a set of Boston Acoustic car audio xovers laying on the shelf, thought...what the heck and slapped them in there. Much to my surprise that's the FR curve. Bonus! A bit hot in the middle, but just fine for pinball duty. A tent sale 2.1 plate amp finished it off.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/2vc1o7wb5iwp8hx/IMG_9078.mov?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/i1rc3wsu8cghoff/IMG_9105.mov?dl=0
I hope these work, he did a fantastic job on it!
...and of course the best game on it....
https://www.dropbox.com/s/zj0ifxnd398segi/IMG_9140.mov?dl=0
Where did you get the grills for the Audax on the sats? Those are cool!
InDIYana Event Website
Basic boxes are built. Need to machine the driver rebates and cutouts on the baffles, attach, flush trim, then roundover with 3/4" bit. More to follow...
I think he had a buddy print them.