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New 3 way project - The Clinchers!

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  • IMO 3/4 is iffy, even parallel to the grain. I gave up on some maple that was flat cut. 
     John H, btw forum has decided I don't get emails
  • Hmmm?  It would only be for the bass bins which would be crossed at somewhere around 500 Hz.  So the roundovers would be more for looks than for diffraction performance.
  • This was rift sawn oak which bent OK



    PWRRYDR-Carpenter
     John H, btw forum has decided I don't get emails
  • Beautiful John.
  • NBL veneer can do a 3/4" radius according to Tape Ease.  From their website. " The NBL has the backer wood-grain the same direction as on the face, giving you the option of doing as little as a 3/4" radius going with the wood-grain. These materials are a hair less then 1/16" thick for 2ply and NBL."

    Ron
  • edited July 2018
    I think the roundovers are needed.


    D1PP1N
  • I ordered three large sheets of paper backed makore crotch veneer.  Hopefully I can get a single piece to wrap around the front (with 3/4" round overs) and cover both sides without cracking.  Where should I order veneer softener from?  And what is wrong with using contact cement besides the insanely bad fumes?  It was very easy to apply and has held up well for several years, and the headache went away the next day LOL
  • Couldn't help but notice your cardboard wrench hanging there. Kiddo make you a tool?
  • PWRRYD said:
    I ordered three large sheets of paper backed makore crotch veneer.  Hopefully I can get a single piece to wrap around the front (with 3/4" round overs) and cover both sides without cracking.  Where should I order veneer softener from?  And what is wrong with using contact cement besides the insanely bad fumes?  It was very easy to apply and has held up well for several years, and the headache went away the next day LOL
    Nothing is wrong with contact cement if the fumes are ok in your environment.
    My workshop is in the basement, and I need non-toxic solutions.

    Veneer softener:  http://www.rockler.com/veneer-glycerine
    Mix glycerine with alcohol and water.

    Real Good Article: https://www.joewoodworker.com/veneering/flattening.htm








    But Chahly - Stahkist don't want speakers that look good, Stahkist wants speakers that sound good!
  • rjj45 said:
    PWRRYD said:
    I ordered three large sheets of paper backed makore crotch veneer.  Hopefully I can get a single piece to wrap around the front (with 3/4" round overs) and cover both sides without cracking.  Where should I order veneer softener from?  And what is wrong with using contact cement besides the insanely bad fumes?  It was very easy to apply and has held up well for several years, and the headache went away the next day LOL
    Nothing is wrong with contact cement if the fumes are ok in your environment.
    My workshop is in the basement, and I need non-toxic solutions.

    Veneer softener:  http://www.rockler.com/veneer-glycerine
    Mix glycerine with alcohol and water.

    Real Good Article: https://www.joewoodworker.com/veneering/flattening.htm








    Thank you!
  • Wolf said:
    Couldn't help but notice your cardboard wrench hanging there. Kiddo make you a tool?
    Good eye Ben!  Yes, they made me a wall hanging that says "Daddy's Workshop" with various tools hanging below.  Best Father's Day gift I've received!!!!  
    S7910ani_101Silver1omo
  • edited July 2018
    PWRRYD said:
    Wolf said:
    Couldn't help but notice your cardboard wrench hanging there. Kiddo make you a tool?
    Good eye Ben!  Yes, they made me a wall hanging that says "Daddy's Workshop" with various tools hanging below.  Best Father's Day gift I've received!!!!  


    I saw that wrench too. Those are the gifts you'll keep forever and they'll make you smile even when you're having "challenging shop day"! 
  • PWRRYD said:
    Wolf said:
    Couldn't help but notice your cardboard wrench hanging there. Kiddo make you a tool?
    Good eye Ben!  Yes, they made me a wall hanging that says "Daddy's Workshop" with various tools hanging below.  Best Father's Day gift I've received!!!!  
    can you post the wall hanging - would love to see the rest of the tools!!!
  • 20180714_100937.jpg

    Almost all the letters have fallen off.
  • Hmmm?  Picture didn't attach.  Second try:


    ani_101Silver1omoS7910
  • On another note:  I just tried Andrew Jone's recommendation on how to measure the woofer's FR below 200 Hz...  OmniMic hanging inside the enclosure.  I must have had the mic end way too close to the internal end of the port because my measurement was a large peak right at 32 Hz (the port's tuning frequency), falling off quickly -15 dB at 200 Hz, then a huge nose dive above that.
  • I'm hoping you figure it out as I'd like to use that technique.  Jerry M was giving me some bad head shakes on Saturday.
     John H, btw forum has decided I don't get emails
  • I mean to try that too when I get the current cabs constructed.
  • PWRRYD said:
    On another note:  I just tried Andrew Jone's recommendation on how to measure the woofer's FR below 200 Hz...  OmniMic hanging inside the enclosure.  I must have had the mic end way too close to the internal end of the port because my measurement was a large peak right at 32 Hz (the port's tuning frequency), falling off quickly -15 dB at 200 Hz, then a huge nose dive above that.
    It would be very interesting to compare that with close miked woofer and port measurements.






    But Chahly - Stahkist don't want speakers that look good, Stahkist wants speakers that sound good!
  • I do plan to try some more internal measurements as it makes total sense to me.  Next time I will duct tape the mic facing upwards and away from the port and the rear of the woofer and see what the results are.  End of the day I have had very good results measuring the woofer and the port, both near field (external), then SPL correcting the port measurement, then blending them together.
    rjj45
  • I seem to recall that Andrew's measurement technique involved some Calculus (integral or derivative, can't remember which) being applied to the raw measurement. I would have really liked a demo or a brief write-up.
  • From my notes, Andrew shared two techniques one with the microphone in the box, the other was calculating an equivalent impedance circuit then doing some double differential calculation to create a derived woofer FR curve.  He kind of glossed over the math part, which would have been interesting to see.

     John H, btw forum has decided I don't get emails
  • edited July 2018
    Yes that is what I recall too John.  I wasn't overly interested in his derivation of bass response from the impedance plot.  I was, however, very interested in his "mic in box" method.  I don't remember him saying the direction of the mic was all that important, more so that the mic was kind of in the middle of the box, not laying on one of the internal panels.  I'll give it another shot and see if things change significantly.
  • Could you drill a hole for the mic to poke through?
  • 6thplanet said:
    Could you drill a hole for the mic to poke through?
    I was thinking about that.  The OmniMic would only need a ~1/4" hole.  Easy enough to fill in and would never be seen when covered in veneer.
  • Exactly, centered between the port and woofer, maybe? If it's a test enclosure I'd try multiple locations and see what kind of changes are seen to see if it matters where the best reading comes from.
  • Well I gave it two more attempts with the mic in very different orientations.  Almost exactly the same outcome in all three mic positions.  As a sanity check I ran a near field FR on the woofer (1/4" from dust cap).  The woofer, port, and enclosure are functioning exactly as predicted by the measured T/S parameters with Unibox.  Maybe AJ was giving us a zinger  :o
    6thplanet
  • I will post the measurements later but this is the lowest distortion woofer I have ever measured.
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