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Simple LP storage/display stand build
I'm currently just using a couple of crates sitting on the floor to hold my LPs. I've already outgrown the crates and want to get them more up and out of the way. The Ikea cube storage units would work, but not quite our style.
I found this idea:
https://johnvantine.com/i-built-a-vinyl-record-shelf/
I realy didn't feel like lugging around a 4x8 sheet and cutting it up out in the cold. Also I don't have anywhere close to the 500+ LPs that thing can handle. Something more slim with less capacity should do fine for me. So I pared the design way down for using 16" wide edge glued pine boards. Dropping down to only 7 cuts with very little scrap.
External dimensions should come to 31" wide, 36" tall, 16" deep. The LPs will stack along the width instead of front to back like the above linked design. This eliminates the need for the divider boards. The jackets are less than 13" deep. The extra depth of the cabinet allows a ~1.25" ledge up front to display the "On Deck" jackets. Planning to use peg and pocket screw construction like the TV stand I built.
Current lumber price (Menards) and cut list:
1x16x8' ($31.98)
-1x side (36")
-2x bottoms (29.5")
1x16x3' ($11.98)
-1x side (36")
1x6x10' ($9.39)
-4x backs/fronts (29.5")
Total lumber cost $53.35
Picked up the lumber and got the cuts done. Laid pieces together for a mockup shot.
Comments
Dude! You work quickly and that looks great so far.
Can I offer a small suggestion? (route a round-over on the tops of the horizontal braces holding the jackets front to back so the sharp 90* edge doesn't damage them as they are removed and replaced into the shelf).
Yep everything will likely get an 1/8" roundover at least. I also want to cut a flute or rabbit down the front top edge of the little ledge that would give some extra purchase to hold the jackets set up front.
Dabbling with an idea to cut some circles out of the sides for a little extra flair and allow more light below when browsing the bottom shelf. Don't know if that would be enough though. Might need a puck light or two under the top shelf.
Something like this might be a nice addition to light it up....
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09TDYKCBY/ref=sspa_mw_detail_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9kZXRhaWwp13NParams
All the peg and pocket screw holes are drilled. The pegs are not glued yet, but can still pop em in and install a few screws to get it freestanding for the first time.
Deciding if I want to do anything more with the sides. How about a slight angle profile on the front and some speed holes?
Might be a little risky since it is extra oportunity for me to screw it up, and for the edge glued boards to split... I have been watching them curl and flatten quite a bit with the recent humidity swings.
Maybe just a front profile?
Go for the holes - it will reduce humidity build-up in those enclosed spaces . . . protecting your investment.
My vote is yes to the angle no to the holes. Pine moves a lot and I would be a little worried about splitting. Cool looking build.
Yeah agreed. Any tension would be concentrated at the small spots between the circles.
I marked up a piece to make a profile plate. Experimenting with adjustments due to the interrupted angled line optical illusion effect.
A little extra shape can go a long way IMO.
I'm going to shellac this because I can just rub it on indoors without a bad stink. Entertaining the idea of trying a stain. I've never really had success staining much besides tannin reactive stuff or an ebonizing dye. I know pine sucks to stain due to grain reversal but I hear a coat of shellac first can help. @R-Carpenter 's walnut based stain is a rather mild brown tint. Might try that. Like usual, going for minimum effort here with what I already have on hand. I know there are a ton of other probably better ideas.
Finished the router work. I suck at that stuff but I get it done. Needs lots-o-sanding to get it to look decent. The router table got some oxidation on the aluminum top due to me storing it outside under a roof until I figure out where to store inside. That rubbed off leaving dark grey streaks. Not necessarily a bad thing since it forces me to do fine sanding on the flats instead of being lazy
. So much for this being a quickie weekend project.
I like the way Pine stains. Gives it character.
I did try the the walnut stain mentioned above above with shellac previously on a test piece and didn't quite care for it.. but that might have been an application method issue. So I'm a bit torn.
The "water based" stains are enticing. Since they seem to sit on the surface a bit more rather than soaking in. I might bite the bullet and try one of those.
I like to use wood conditioner before I apply stain to pine. I also like plain pine with just a nice finish.
You might have a hard time getting a good stain with shellac on the wood, shellac does a good job of sealing the wood even with a thin coat.
Yeah, ditto. Pre-stain wood conditioner for pine is great.
The other thing you can do with pine is scorch it!
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I have minimal experience with white pine. I think maybe the darker you try to go the more challenging it will be.
Cheapest and most gnarly with pine-
Scorch with torch.
Wet-wipe off the ash leftover.
Lay on a brush coat of your favorite color oil based paint, wait 10-15 minutes and wipe off. Use something in contrast to black.
Oil polyurethane topcoat.
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General finishes gel stain work great on pine.
There's always paint. I've used colored Duratex, going for a flat rather than textured finish on some small furniture items. Turned out well and the durability is a bonus.
I had to sand off the initial coat of stain when I was building my equipment rack because it came out very blotchy. I found a recipe on YouTube for an DIY pre-stain and it did the trick!
Who else besides myself thinks the blotch looks pretty cool?
It is colorful and has a cool pattern, I like it...
With a different color stain, not that particular stain.
Ah yes, Marc juice. I've watched that one. I believe I tried it once. It ended up being a not great test so I can't say much about it.
I don't care for the splotch and grain reversal. Too rustic for me. Scorching it would be even more in that direction. Shellac will yellow it a bit, which I'm not a big fan of, but it is hard to beat it's ease of application and ultra quick drying.
For me pine can look good with water based poly since it doesn't amplify the grain at all. I have not had luck brushing or using the spray cans of the stuff though. I typically will use my spray rig for that but cold and windy right now.