@Tom_S said:
Wow! That beats the hell out of my little plastic protractor with a piece of string attached to it.
Dang that's a nice simple idea.. Beats the hell out of my sheet of paper folded into thirds for 30/60deg and in half again for 15/45deg. Then eyeballing it .
I'm thinking that I could cut out the two layer turntable bases on my CNC pretty cheaply. My wife however would probably charge an arm and a leg for the laser work.
When taking horizontal polars the front of the speaker is in the center of the susan. All of the speaker weight is behind that. It reduces friction and keeps the top surface nice and level. If your susan bearing is 5/16 thick, 8mm, like mine, I used a 608 bearing, 22mm OD 8mm ID so I routered a groove for the shaft 7mm deep I think. Check my math.
We're they colder than room temp? That could have a factor in stiffening the suspension, etc.
Otherwise, that doesn't sound normal unless they are really old and the Ferrofluid needs replaced.
It was ferrofluid. I took it out. These tweeters were not supposed to have it. Explains why they donated them to PE. Not complaining. they sound good to me. It improved the response in my application. They had a dip between 5 and 6K that coincided with a diffraction dip caused by my 1/8 inch wide grill groove. Now the squiggles look better. I know how we like us some tiny squiggles.
I am giving up on second order slopes. My best one sounded really good on male vocals, then I heard some trumpets or some kind of brass instruments and it was awful. I have a LR4 designed but it has two large caps on the tweeter. I also have a 3rd order acoustic slope XO that I am working on with a very nice power response and one 4.7 uf cap in series with the tweeter. I know that the other caps also contribute through the negative. Not to be confused with 0 volts ground. But they do so to a much lesser extent. My reasoning is this. We only do crossovers because we have to. less is better. Less could mean dollars, it could mean component count, it could mean phase shift introduced by those components. There is much to consider.
Okay, we know they are Supreme tweeters. Is it the newer TCST tweeters or one of the older pancake-Neo motor models? The reason I ask, is the older, and frankly every other Morel tweeter I'm aware of, Supreme tweeters I'm certain have ferrofluid. I think the newer TCST is the only one (IIRC) that doesn't.
Be very aware your power handling will likely be reduced without it, and your impedance resonance will be much higher in magnitude.
I am now crossing at 1600 with third order acoustic slopes and they do not complain. That woofer has done all the complaining. I plan to leave the ferrofluid out. I don't crank my music too loud.
Yes I did. I have discovered that I need to enter in microphone distance and driver spacing and then I get a nearly perfect match to my measured combined overlay while determining Z offset. Well begun is half done. My simulations are very close now. I feel like I know what its like to be you. Only not as experienced. And not as smart. And not as retired.
New crossover. I keep going steeper slopes. This one is LR4 at 1480Hz and I can no longer hear woofer ringing. How many of you out there in speakerland would use electrolytics anywhere on the woofer? Remember this is not a budget build.
Comments
Dang that's a nice simple idea.. Beats the hell out of my sheet of paper folded into thirds for 30/60deg and in half again for 15/45deg. Then eyeballing it
.
I'm thinking that I could cut out the two layer turntable bases on my CNC pretty cheaply. My wife however would probably charge an arm and a leg for the laser work.
I like the fact that it is actually a dual use object - furniture and axis measurement stand - quite clever Mr. Egg Man.
Might as well make it look nice. I seldom regret spending a little more time to do so.
Would you be able to post a pic of the underside, got the 10" lazy Susan part. What's the ball bearing for and that too under the rear post?
When taking horizontal polars the front of the speaker is in the center of the susan. All of the speaker weight is behind that. It reduces friction and keeps the top surface nice and level. If your susan bearing is 5/16 thick, 8mm, like mine, I used a 608 bearing, 22mm OD 8mm ID so I routered a groove for the shaft 7mm deep I think. Check my math.
I agree with David now. Second order acoustic sounds good.
I'm a slow learner.
Slightly better than a non-learner
My Morel tweeters were out of spec. Fs around 900 in June. Not a big deal. Now they are around 1400 in February. Is this typical. Shrinkage
If so, it is a good reason for shunt components
We're they colder than room temp? That could have a factor in stiffening the suspension, etc.
Otherwise, that doesn't sound normal unless they are really old and the Ferrofluid needs replaced.
InDIYana Event Website
It was ferrofluid. I took it out. These tweeters were not supposed to have it. Explains why they donated them to PE. Not complaining. they sound good to me. It improved the response in my application. They had a dip between 5 and 6K that coincided with a diffraction dip caused by my 1/8 inch wide grill groove. Now the squiggles look better. I know how we like us some tiny squiggles.
I am giving up on second order slopes. My best one sounded really good on male vocals, then I heard some trumpets or some kind of brass instruments and it was awful. I have a LR4 designed but it has two large caps on the tweeter. I also have a 3rd order acoustic slope XO that I am working on with a very nice power response and one 4.7 uf cap in series with the tweeter. I know that the other caps also contribute through the negative. Not to be confused with 0 volts ground. But they do so to a much lesser extent. My reasoning is this. We only do crossovers because we have to. less is better. Less could mean dollars, it could mean component count, it could mean phase shift introduced by those components. There is much to consider.
That woofer has a pretty stiff cone. Ringing to deal with
Okay, we know they are Supreme tweeters. Is it the newer TCST tweeters or one of the older pancake-Neo motor models? The reason I ask, is the older, and frankly every other Morel tweeter I'm aware of, Supreme tweeters I'm certain have ferrofluid. I think the newer TCST is the only one (IIRC) that doesn't.
Be very aware your power handling will likely be reduced without it, and your impedance resonance will be much higher in magnitude.
InDIYana Event Website
ST1108
I could not find proof that they should or not have FF. I could have sworn that they should.
InDIYana Event Website
I am now crossing at 1600 with third order acoustic slopes and they do not complain. That woofer has done all the complaining. I plan to leave the ferrofluid out. I don't crank my music too loud.
Best sounding yet. I no longer suck terribly at crossovers.
You need to flip both driver polarities if that is how you have them wired. The impact is produced in the forward wave. Otherwise, that looks great!
InDIYana Event Website
I do not have them wired that way. It was just easier for me to see phase tracking that way. And thanks for the positive reinforcement.
Looking good! You must have run up a new set of measurements, as I now see that you have converted over to using a 128mm Y offset on the woofer.
Yes I did. I have discovered that I need to enter in microphone distance and driver spacing and then I get a nearly perfect match to my measured combined overlay while determining Z offset. Well begun is half done. My simulations are very close now. I feel like I know what its like to be you. Only not as experienced. And not as smart. And not as retired.
New crossover. I keep going steeper slopes. This one is LR4 at 1480Hz and I can no longer hear woofer ringing. How many of you out there in speakerland would use electrolytics anywhere on the woofer? Remember this is not a budget build.
Six pack. Not the beer kind.
What's your impedance look like?
Or is that your impedance in the last pane? If it is, you have a very resistive 3 ohms in the woofer, or I'm reading it wrong.
InDIYana Event Website