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I build the Napoleons several years ago as a small desk top type of speaker, with the intention of adding a bass module "The cavalry to the rescue".
The Napoleons utilize a ND65 and ND16 combination in a cabinet with a gross volume of just under 1.5L. They measure 4.75" x 4.75" x 7.5" while the calvary are a truncated pyramid measuring 4.75" square at the top tapering out to 13" square at the bottom and 29.5" tall giving them a tweeter height of 35.5" when stacked. The cavalry use 2 Dayton DC160's in an isobaric vented alignment, giving a F3 in the low 30's.
Comments
ok, what's your finishing steps on this beauty
These are sprayed with 2K urethane. The veneer was so rough that I ended up spraying them twice and sanding them back before I got a smooth coat the last time. I really should have used grain filler first, but I was in a hurry and ended up paying the price.
Do you ever make anything ugly?
I'd assume woofers
Absolutely!!!
No, but his mom did.
OH!!😝
Stop talking to my mom Eric!
how did you mount the inside driver?
I've tried iso's (after seeing the Orange SP410 and OBC212s), and I have to say I like your circular coupling design
Looks like surface mount . . . (See last pic, ^ above).
The inside driver is just screwed to the tunnel with weather stripping as a gasket. I did fill the inner driver paper gaskets with silicone.
both top and bottom are accessible, so i guess you could screw in from both ends?
Thanks correct Ani.
Oh but those internal glue runs.... your stock is dropping number 2!
But I finish the bottoms.
Here's where I'm at currently. I have just a touch of phase fuckery, (circled) it's where the tweeter phase starts to veer off. Now I need some seat time, before any final tweaking.
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I should mention that if you look at the inside picture, you'll see an inner ledge with weather stripping. I originally intended to make a dual chamber bass reflex enclosure, but I didn't care for the sound.
This is the near and far field blended to remove all the room bullshit.
Resolved some of the phase issue.
These have wide dispersion. The graph shows 0 to 90 degrees in 15 degree increments.
30 and 45 degrees off-ctr are impressive
So I decided to add grills with built in waveguides to these guys. This is a rough first version for proof of concept.
The off axis behavior is greatly improved. This is every 10 degrees up to 80 and my usual 3db/div.
No the permanent version will just get painted black, covered in cloth and held on with magnets.
That waveguide makes a very noticable difference above 800hz. I expected the tweeters response to improve but the woofer response improvement is an unexpected bonus. Is it safe to say this is all a reduction of diffraction? I don't see anything that makes me think there is a boost caused by any "horn" loading.
The wg does provide boost. The response that I posted is of a modified crossover for the wg. Here's the response with the original crossover and wg.
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Ahh that makes more sense.
Did you keep the same crossover point or did you lower the crossover point to work better with the boost? I have seen where boost at the crossover can be problematic.