The port is 3D printed. Still has some glue gunk and some peel from the adhesion layer. Any good way of cleaning it up without sanding and painting it? I would like to keep the blue print.
Next time I need to be careful which side is on the bottom. But I would have got a bunch of support if the flange was on the top.
If the first layer is bad or doesn't stick properly, the entire print goes for a toss. I got good adhesion, just need to clean it up a bit. Sanding takes away the shine of the print and dulls it - the only option to finishing it is to paint it.
I also do not know how people finish rainbow or silk filaments as they are menat to show off the colors or shine - looking for tips or somthing that works on cleaning up the prints.
Continuing with 3D printing mishaps... This was round 1. One the bottom layer kept stuck to the print plate, second one the port snapped from the flange. Then I printed the blue on with much thicker walls and skins.
The orange one was 1/8 thick all over, the blue one is 1/4 for the port wall and 0.5 for the flange with double the wall thickness.
Still new for me as I just started and need to dial in settings. The orange one took about 2 hrs, the blue just over 5 hrs.
@ani_101 said:
If the first layer is bad or doesn't stick properly, the entire print goes for a toss. I got good adhesion, just need to clean it up a bit. Sanding takes away the shine of the print and dulls it - the only option to finishing it is to paint it.
I also do not know how people finish rainbow or silk filaments as they are menat to show off the colors or shine - looking for tips or somthing that works on cleaning up the prints.
Here is a 3" precision port that I sanded off the ugly tool case texture on the flange, then used some 0000 steel wool to give the glossy flare section some tooth. Finally sprayed a satin clear coat directly over the plastic (no color needed). Below is a pic of it next to an untouched part. A more glossy clear would probably work well too. Just sand to at least 220grit (maybe finer for gloss) so the texture is fine enough for the coating to fill in and level out.
It will look terrible after sanding. The clear works magic.
Ani, you may have too much bed adhesion. Are you letting the prints cool before trying to remove them? What is your infill % and # of walls? It will also help to a fillet or chamfer to the flange where it connects to the port tube for extra strength.
Get a G10 build plate. It's magic. Prints stick to it until it cools and then you can usually just pick them up off the build plate.
You may need to make the wall of the port thicker or increase the infill if you want to keep the flange from breaking off. I print my ports with 1/8" walls and 1/4" flanges. With a thicker flange you can print holes with recesses for the screw heads.
I have an Creality K1 Max. I am using the bed that came with it, flexible bed and i also use gluestick. Infill is 15% and # of walls is 2. The blue one is printed much thicker and is more stanger than the orange one.
I'm printing a template for a Peerless truncated cone woofer and made a video of removing the PLA print from the G10 build plate. After the bed had cooled to room temperature I literally just picked it up. If I have a print that doesn't release the build plate is thin enough that it flexes and the print will pop off easily.
The print is just over 8 inches square and the bed side is smooth like glass. The template will be 1/2" thick but I stopped it mid print to see if it was going to fit the driver. It was a little small.
I had a lot of fun putting this together. The first track I started with was "Chicken Banana"!!!
Wanted to put in a few tracks that made the small speakers sound full, but no crazy bass tracks that would stress the woofers. These tiny speakers image very nicely.
6 Liters with Fb of 63 and F3 of 54, with a 1.75" port of 6" length - hence the custom port. 2" port was too long and 1.5" port was chuffing. Supposed to hit over 100db with 60 watts. Efficiency of the 8 ohm Vifa 5.5" is 86 db at 2.83v.
The port speed might seem a bit higher, but this is at 103db. At a more realistic 92db (about 86 db after full Bsc or 88db on a desk in a normal room), it looks much better.
Power falls from 60 watts to 5 watts. Cone excursion is also under control. This will be their usual setting and conditions
@Ron_E said:
I'm printing a template for a Peerless truncated cone woofer and made a video of removing the PLA print from the G10 build plate. After the bed had cooled to room temperature I literally just picked it up. If I have a print that doesn't release the build plate is thin enough that it flexes and the print will pop off easily.
I need to find a g10 sheet that would fit the k1mac. Couldn't find a specific one for it.
Do I still use the flexible magnetic build plate and clip the G10 to it or clip directly to the hot bed?
Just clip the G10 to the bed. Amazon has some 310mm x 310mm sheets that you could cut down on a table saw although you might get by just letting it hang over the edge. I use small binder clips.
Comments
The port is 3D printed. Still has some glue gunk and some peel from the adhesion layer. Any good way of cleaning it up without sanding and painting it? I would like to keep the blue print.
Next time I need to be careful which side is on the bottom. But I would have got a bunch of support if the flange was on the top.
I wouldn't think you'd need a bed adhesion layer or glue, but I know at times getting prints to stay put can be a pain.
If the first layer is bad or doesn't stick properly, the entire print goes for a toss. I got good adhesion, just need to clean it up a bit. Sanding takes away the shine of the print and dulls it - the only option to finishing it is to paint it.
I also do not know how people finish rainbow or silk filaments as they are menat to show off the colors or shine - looking for tips or somthing that works on cleaning up the prints.
Continuing with 3D printing mishaps... This was round 1. One the bottom layer kept stuck to the print plate, second one the port snapped from the flange. Then I printed the blue on with much thicker walls and skins.
The orange one was 1/8 thick all over, the blue one is 1/4 for the port wall and 0.5 for the flange with double the wall thickness.
Still new for me as I just started and need to dial in settings. The orange one took about 2 hrs, the blue just over 5 hrs.
Here is a 3" precision port that I sanded off the ugly tool case texture on the flange, then used some 0000 steel wool to give the glossy flare section some tooth. Finally sprayed a satin clear coat directly over the plastic (no color needed). Below is a pic of it next to an untouched part. A more glossy clear would probably work well too. Just sand to at least 220grit (maybe finer for gloss) so the texture is fine enough for the coating to fill in and level out.
It will look terrible after sanding. The clear works magic.
Ani, you may have too much bed adhesion. Are you letting the prints cool before trying to remove them? What is your infill % and # of walls? It will also help to a fillet or chamfer to the flange where it connects to the port tube for extra strength.
Get a G10 build plate. It's magic. Prints stick to it until it cools and then you can usually just pick them up off the build plate.
You may need to make the wall of the port thicker or increase the infill if you want to keep the flange from breaking off. I print my ports with 1/8" walls and 1/4" flanges. With a thicker flange you can print holes with recesses for the screw heads.
I have an Creality K1 Max. I am using the bed that came with it, flexible bed and i also use gluestick. Infill is 15% and # of walls is 2. The blue one is printed much thicker and is more stanger than the orange one.
I'm printing a template for a Peerless truncated cone woofer and made a video of removing the PLA print from the G10 build plate. After the bed had cooled to room temperature I literally just picked it up. If I have a print that doesn't release the build plate is thin enough that it flexes and the print will pop off easily.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1O-3oCUCrFw6xfzde_WYZM-d_-Qvn1fZB/view?usp=sharing
The print is just over 8 inches square and the bed side is smooth like glass. The template will be 1/2" thick but I stopped it mid print to see if it was going to fit the driver. It was a little small.
Ani, those things sounded really good!! Great job on the DSP work to get them going👍🏻 Solid little units.
I agree! Those sounded great.
Could you post your track playlist, please? There was some good stuff in there.
InDIYana Event Website
Yes the DSP makes little speakers sound like big ones. Requires good bones to be able to handle the "abuse" though. Good job on all of it!
Yeah, well done Ani, and the hifiberry was seriously cool.
Tracklist:
The cut is uploaded here: Ani Indy2025
I had a lot of fun putting this together. The first track I started with was "Chicken Banana"!!!
Wanted to put in a few tracks that made the small speakers sound full, but no crazy bass tracks that would stress the woofers. These tiny speakers image very nicely.
Box design:
6 Liters with Fb of 63 and F3 of 54, with a 1.75" port of 6" length - hence the custom port. 2" port was too long and 1.5" port was chuffing. Supposed to hit over 100db with 60 watts. Efficiency of the 8 ohm Vifa 5.5" is 86 db at 2.83v.
The port speed might seem a bit higher, but this is at 103db. At a more realistic 92db (about 86 db after full Bsc or 88db on a desk in a normal room), it looks much better.
Power falls from 60 watts to 5 watts. Cone excursion is also under control. This will be their usual setting and conditions
Inbox measurement, the tuning comes out to be a little lower... but in the ballpark. F3 would be in the low 50's
I need to find a g10 sheet that would fit the k1mac. Couldn't find a specific one for it.
Do I still use the flexible magnetic build plate and clip the G10 to it or clip directly to the hot bed?
Just clip the G10 to the bed. Amazon has some 310mm x 310mm sheets that you could cut down on a table saw although you might get by just letting it hang over the edge. I use small binder clips.
I'll try the 310x310. Might be just ok with the clearance.